Autumn / Winter
English Worsteds
Huddersfield and Yorkshire cloth in Super 120s to 180s. Herringbone, birdseye and clean twills that hold a crease through a wedding season.
Since 1952 · Surat
Cloth chosen well, fitted by hand.
Three generations of cloth merchants and cutters. We keep a library of over four thousand fabrics — English worsteds, Irish linens, Egyptian cottons — and we fit every garment ourselves, in the room where it is made.
Super 150s Worsted
Huddersfield, England
1952
Established
The House
A merchant's eye,
a tailor's hand.
Fakhruddin Nalwala opened a single counter of cloth in Chowk Bazaar in 1952, selling by the yard to the tailors of the old city. His sons learned to cut. Their sons learned to fit.
Today the house does both — we buy directly from the mills whose names we trust, and we make the garment ourselves rather than sending the cloth away. Nothing leaves the atelier until it has been tried on three times.
“The cloth tells you how it wants to be cut. You only have to be patient enough to listen.”
3Generations
of the family
of the family
26Mills we buy
from directly
from directly
3Fittings before
a garment leaves
a garment leaves
The Library
Cloth, gathered carefully
Four rooms of fabric, arranged by season and by weight. Every bolt is documented — mill, weight, weave and the year it was woven.
Spring / Summer
Irish & Italian Linen
Baird McNutt and Solbiati, in weights from 190g to 340g. The cloth for a Gujarat summer — it breathes, and it wrinkles honestly.
Ceremonial
Silk & Jacquard
Woven silks for sherwani, bandhgala and the wedding coat — self-patterned jacquards, raw tussar and mulberry satins from Surat's own looms.
Rare & Reserved
Cashmere & Pashmina
Loro Piana cashmere and hand-spun Kashmiri pashmina, held in limited length. Reserved by appointment — usually one coat per bolt.
The Fitting
Four visits, one garment
A bespoke garment is not measured once. It is corrected on the body, in cloth, until the shoulder sits still when you move.
Consultation
An hour in the fabric rooms. We talk about where the garment will be worn, in what heat, and how you want to feel in it. Cloth is chosen last, not first.
60 minutesMeasure & Pattern
Twenty-two measurements taken by hand, plus posture and shoulder-slope notes. A paper pattern is drafted for you alone and kept in the house.
45 minutesBasted Fitting
The garment is assembled in loose white basting thread and tried on. Here the balance, the collar and the sleeve pitch are corrected — then it is taken apart again.
2–3 weeks laterFinish & Delivery
Hand-set collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, final press on the wooden form. A last fitting, small corrections, and the garment goes home in a cotton bag.
5–6 weeks totalMachines can join two pieces of cloth. Only a hand can make them agree with a shoulder that is a little higher than the other.Murtaza Fakhruddin — Master Cutter, third generation
What We Make
Commissions
Bespoke Suit
Two or three piece, fully canvassed, cut from your own paper pattern. Four fittings.
₹58,000Excl. cloth
Sherwani & Bandhgala
Ceremonial tailoring with hand-worked closures, silk lining and structured shoulder.
₹72,000Excl. cloth
Shirting
Single-needle seams, hand-attached collar, mother-of-pearl buttons. Minimum of three.
₹6,400Per shirt, excl. cloth
Cloth by the Metre
The full library, sold by length to tailors and to houses we have known for years.
₹3,400Per metre, from
Alteration & Restoration
Re-cutting inherited garments, re-lining, and reviving cloth that deserves another decade.
₹2,200Per garment, from
The Uniform Division
Schools, dressed properly
The same cutting floor dresses eleven schools across Surat. Uniform work is judged on different things — cloth that survives a monsoon term, hems that let down twice, and four hundred garments delivered before the first bell.
Shirts & Blouses
Poplin · 120 g/m
Trousers & Pinafores
Poly-viscose twill
Blazers & House Coats
Serge · half canvas
Ties, Belts & Sportswear
Woven to house colours
Contract tailoring, measured at school
We bring the measuring to you. Our cutters run a size-set camp in the school hall over two days, fit every child by hand, and keep the chart on file — for siblings, for mid-year joiners and for next year's intake.
- Cloth chosen for daily wear — colour-fast, and tested to three hundred washes
- Growth allowance built in: hems and side seams let down twice without a mark
- Size sets approved by the school before a single garment is cut
- Woven name tapes and house colours sewn in, never ironed on
- Re-orders through the year at the same price as the term contract
11Schools under
contract
contract
9,400Garments made
each term
each term
2 daysMeasuring camp
on site
on site
72 hrsRe-orders
dispatched
dispatched
In Their Words
Clients of the house
They refused to sell me the cloth I wanted, and were right. The linen they chose instead has survived four summers of court work.
My father's sherwani was cut here in 1978. Mine was cut in the same room, by his son, from the same book of patterns.
Four fittings felt excessive until the third one, when the collar finally stopped lifting. Now I understand what I was paying for.
By Appointment
Come and handle the cloth
The fabric rooms are open Monday to Saturday. Tea is made at eleven and at four. There is no obligation to commission anything.