The Commission
Bespoke means a pattern drafted for one body and no other. It takes five to six weeks, four visits and a great deal of unpicking — which is exactly why it fits.
Home/Bespoke
Step by Step
We begin with the life the garment has to live — a courtroom, a wedding in May, a flight every fortnight. Only then do we walk the fabric rooms. Most clients arrive certain about colour and leave having changed their mind about weight.
Twenty-two measurements, taken standing as you actually stand — not as you stand when someone is holding a tape. We note the dropped shoulder, the forward neck, the fuller right arm. These asymmetries are the whole reason bespoke exists.
Your pattern is drafted by hand in brown paper, named, dated and filed in the pattern room. We have patterns in there from 1974 that are still being cut from — and altered gently, decade by decade, as their owners change shape.
The garment appears held together in loose white thread, chalk marks everywhere, one sleeve missing. This is the important visit. Balance, collar and sleeve pitch are corrected on your body — then the whole thing is taken apart again.
Reassembled with the canvas set and the sleeves hung. Small corrections now — a quarter inch off the waist, the lapel rolled a little softer. Buttonholes are marked but not yet cut.
Buttonholes worked by hand in silk, collar felled, lining bar-tacked, and a final press over the wooden form. You try it once more. If anything at all is wrong, it goes back upstairs — the delivery date is never the reason to accept a garment.
On the Body
A selection of the twenty-two. Each is taken twice, on separate visits, and the second reading is the one that goes on the pattern.
Commissions
Cloth is charged separately, by the metre, from the library. Nothing else is added later — the fittings, the pattern and its lifetime storage are included.
Single-needle seams, hand-attached collar, mother-of-pearl buttons. Minimum commission of three shirts.
Two or three piece, fully canvassed, cut from a paper pattern drafted for you alone.
Sherwani, bandhgala and the wedding coat — structured shoulder, hand-worked closures, silk throughout.
Alterations to garments made elsewhere from ₹2,200. Restoration of inherited garments quoted on sight.
Afterwards
Wool needs forty-eight hours on a broad wooden hanger to recover its shape. Never wear the same suit on consecutive days.
A stiff brush down the grain after each wearing removes most of what dry cleaning would. Clean a suit twice a year at the very most.
Bring it to us. A tailor's press with a damp cloth restores the roll of the lapel; a domestic iron flattens it permanently.
Bodies change quietly. One annual visit and we take in or let out whatever has moved — at cost, for the life of the garment.
Begin
An hour with the cloth and a conversation. If it isn't right for you, we will say so.